Picking and Installing a 14'' Ape Hanger Cable Kit

If you're finally swapping out those stock bars for something taller, you're going to need a reliable 14'' ape hanger cable kit to make sure everything actually reaches the controls. It's one of those parts of a bike build that people sometimes overlook until the bars are already clamped into the risers and they realize the stock brake line is about six inches too short. Trust me, there's nothing more frustrating than being halfway through a project only to realize you're missing the most critical connections.

Upgrading to 14-inch apes is a pretty popular move because it hits that "sweet spot." They're high enough to give you that classic look and a comfortable upright riding position, but they aren't so tall that they turn your arms into sails on the highway. However, once you move away from the stock height, your factory cables and wires just won't cut it. That's where a complete 14'' ape hanger cable kit becomes your best friend.

Why a Full Kit is Better Than Buying Piece by Piece

I've seen guys try to save a few bucks by sourcing every cable individually. They'll find a clutch cable here, a brake line there, and maybe try to solder some wire extensions themselves. Honestly? It's usually a headache that isn't worth the twenty dollars you might save. When you buy a dedicated 14'' ape hanger cable kit, you're getting components that were designed to work together and are pre-measured for that specific height.

The biggest advantage is the peace of mind. You know the fittings are going to match your master cylinder and your clutch housing. You won't end up with a throttle cable that's a half-inch too short or a brake line that has a weird bend in it because it was meant for a different model. Everything arrives in one box, and you can get straight to the actual work instead of scrolling through parts forums trying to figure out which VIN-specific cable you actually need.

Breaking Down What's Inside the Kit

If you're new to swapping bars, you might be wondering what actually comes in these kits. While it varies slightly depending on whether your bike is an older cable-driven model or a newer "throttle-by-wire" setup, a standard 14'' ape hanger cable kit generally includes a few core items.

The Clutch Cable and Throttle Lines

For most bikes, the clutch cable is the long one that requires the most routing finesse. A good kit will provide a cable with the correct throw and a high-quality housing. If your bike has a traditional throttle, you'll also get the throttle and idle cables. These need to be smooth—nobody wants a sticky throttle when they're trying to merge into traffic. High-quality kits often use Teflon-lined housings to keep things moving without needing constant lubrication.

Brake Lines and Electrical Extensions

This is where things get a bit more technical. Most 14'' ape hanger cable kit options include a "standard" or "extended" brake line. If your bike has ABS, this gets a little more complex because you might be replacing the upper line that runs from the master cylinder to the ABS manifold.

Then there's the wiring. Your turn signals, horn, start button, and high beams all have wires that run through (or along) your bars. A 14-inch rise usually requires about 8 to 10 inches of extra wire. Good kits include "plug-and-play" extensions. These are lifesavers. Instead of cutting and soldering 15 different tiny wires, you just plug the extension into your factory harness, and you're good to go.

Choosing Between Stainless Steel and Black Vinyl

When you start shopping for a 14'' ape hanger cable kit, you'll notice two main "looks": braided stainless steel and basic black vinyl. This is mostly about aesthetics, but there are some performance differences too.

Braided stainless steel looks incredible, especially on chrome-heavy cruisers. It gives the bike a high-end, custom feel. Beyond looks, braided lines are often stiffer than rubber, which can actually improve your braking feel. Because the stainless braid prevents the inner hose from expanding under pressure, your brakes might feel a bit more "snappy" and less "mushy."

On the flip side, black vinyl or "black pearl" kits are perfect if you're going for that "blacked-out" or "murdered-out" look. They blend in with the frame and the bars, making the cables look almost invisible. Modern black vinyl kits are usually UV-resistant now, so they won't turn gray or crack after a summer spent out in the sun.

Making Sure You Get the Right Fit

Before you hit "buy" on that 14'' ape hanger cable kit, you need to double-check a few things about your bike. Not all 14-inch bars are created equal. Some are very wide, while others have a narrow "base." If you're running particularly wide "extra-wide" apes, you might actually need a kit designed for 16-inch bars just to get that extra slack for the width.

You also need to know if your bike has a hydraulic clutch or a cable-actuated one. Most kits are specific to one or the other. And as I mentioned before, ABS is a huge factor. If you buy a non-ABS kit for an ABS bike, you're going to be stuck with a brake line that you literally cannot install. Always verify your bike's year, model, and brake configuration before ordering.

A Few Tips for the Installation Day

Once your 14'' ape hanger cable kit arrives, take a Saturday morning and clear some space in the garage. My number one tip? Take pictures of your original cable routing. Before you pull anything off, snap a few photos of how the cables weave through the triple trees and around the frame. It seems simple at the time, but once those bars are off, it's easy to forget if the clutch cable went inside or outside of the fork tube.

If you're pulling the wires inside the bars (internal wiring), use some lubricant or even a little dish soap on the wire shrink-wrap. Dragging wires through the sharp bends of a 14-inch ape hanger can be a struggle, and you don't want to nick a wire and end up with a short circuit that kills your turn signals halfway through a ride.

Also, be patient with the brake bleeding. Replacing the brake line means you're introducing a lot of air into the system. It takes a minute to get all those bubbles out, especially if you're doing it by hand without a vacuum bleeder. Just keep at it until that lever feels solid.

Closing Thoughts

At the end of the day, upgrading your bars is one of the best ways to make a bike feel like yours. It changes the look, the ergonomics, and the overall soul of the ride. While the bars themselves get all the glory, the 14'' ape hanger cable kit is what actually makes the whole thing work.

Don't settle for cheap, no-name cables that might stretch or fray. Get a kit that's built for the job, take your time with the install, and you'll be out on the road enjoying those new bars in no time. There's nothing quite like that first ride with a new set of apes—reaching up, leaning back, and knowing that every cable and wire is exactly where it needs to be.